Bologna the Fat One

Bologna captured our hearts a few years ago when we first visited.

On Wednesday morning Radu announced that on Friday we were flying to Bologna. I barely managed to get on the plane, but once we arrived I wouldn't have traded it for the world. The atmosphere in Bologna is contagious. Young people singing in the streets, the smell of coffee everywhere, shop windows with traditional products (prosciutto, mortadella, tortellini, parmigiano), stalls with fresh fruit and fish, pastry shops on every street corner, trattorias and osterias so numerous you don't know where to sit, elegant young and old people marching through the streets all the time. Perhaps because it's a "young" city thanks to the University (the oldest University in Europe was founded here in 1088), perhaps because it's not a very touristy city, Bologna has preserved its charm and relaxed atmosphere. People here seemed more smiling and calmer than in other tourist cities.

The old town is a small open-air museum. The characteristic arcades allow you to visit the city whether it's hot outside (as it was during our first visit, when it was 40C), or whether it's raining. Walking under them felt like the most romantic thing in the world.

There are many historical sites to visit in Bologna, but we came here for another reason too. You may know, Bologna has a very nice nickname: la Grassa (the Fat One), due to the fabulous food here. It's considered the gastronomic capital of Italy. Here were born lasagna (with green pasta sheets), ragu alla bolognese sauce, mortadella which is eaten sliced extra-thin in adorable little buns called tigelle, tortellini (served with ragu or in soup), streghe (like crackers; in English they translate to "witches"), zuppa inglese. All of these must be tried in Bologna. You can eat damn well everywhere. Find a place you like, sit down, and the Italians will take care of feeding you well.

Where we ate:

1. Osteria dell'Orsa (Via Mentana, 1): a student restaurant, at lower prices, but with very good food and an incredible atmosphere. We ordered what was on the daily special: tagliatelle with ragu (intense ragu), ravioli with potatoes, cheese and pumpkin sauce. A bottle of Lambrusco.
   https://www.osteriadellorsa.com/
2. Trattoria Anna Maria (Via delle Belle Arti 17/A): an old restaurant with over 30 years of tradition; we ate tortellini in brodo (excellent), tagliatelle with ragu (the finest homemade pasta with the finest ragu) and a glass each of house wine.
   https://www.trattoriannamaria.com/
3. Pizzeria Regina Margherita (Via Santo Stefano, 33): typical Neapolitan pizza; We shared a pizza la Verace, the best pizza I've ever eaten
   https://www.reginamargheritagroup.it/i-ristoranti/regina-margherita.html
4. Trattoria Fantoni (Via del Pratello 11a) - the pasta is very good here; tagliatelle al ragu (yes, again! you can't eat enough ragu in Bologna) and pasta with speck
   https://www.facebook.com/Trattoria-Fantoni-181110368568973/
5. Tamburini (Via Caprarie, 1): deli and buffet; this is where I bought most of my products to take home; we also ate at their buffet: pasta with pancetta, porchetta with pickles, assorted cold platter; good cheeses and cold cuts can be bought across the street at Simoni, Paolo Atti and Figli (the best tortellini) and another deli whose name I forgot but is right across the street, where you can find smoked salt, San Marzano canned tomatoes, saba etc.
   https://www.tamburini.com/
6. La Prosciutteria (Via Guglielmo Oberdan): wine-bar with appetizers; we drank a great Chianti here and had a platter with everything; great atmosphere, crowded, music
   https://www.laprosciutteria.com/bologna/
7. Drogheria della Rosa (via Cartoleria 10): no menu, no prices. Dare you?
   https://drogheriadellarosa.it/
8. Enoteca Italiana (Via Marsala, 2): good wines
9. Cafe Terzi (Via Guglielmo Oberdan, 10/d): the best espresso; I also tried specialties (coffee with zabaione, coffee with chocolate) which were very good, but for me they were more like dessert; I prefer an espresso any time
   https://www.caffeterzibologna.com/en/about-us
10. Cremeria Funia (Piazza Cavour 1): pistachio gelato and lemon
    https://www.cremeriafunivia.com/
11. La Sorbetteria Castiglione (Via Castiglione, 44): Dolce Ema, the best gelato with ricotta, lemon and caramelized figs and a focaccia with 3 assorted gelato scoops (yep, Italians eat ice cream in brioche)
12. Pizzartist (Via Marsala, 35): pizza by the meter; low price, very nice toppings (including more interesting ones, with parsley, nettles); however, I didn't like the crust, too hard for me.

Pay close attention to restaurant schedules. Most are open only a few hours at noon (roughly from 12 to 15) and reopen in the evening only after 19. And more popular restaurants are very crowded, usually there are queues forming in front (you write your name on a list and wait to be called). To avoid the queues, we made sure to arrive 10 minutes before opening.

Not only history and food lovers will enjoy it here. The entire old town and Cavour Galleries are packed with elegant shops (I even saw kangaroo leather handbags!). So ladies, charge up your cards! 😉

From Bologna you can quickly reach Florence. Parma, Modena, Ferrara. Since last time we visited Parma and Modena, this time we chose to go for half a day to Florence. The special train ride takes only 35 minutes. Here we tasted the famous liver pate. Bistecca alla Fiorentina will be for next time, when we visit all of Tuscany.

There's still a lot to see and taste in Bologna, but hey, the flight only takes an hour and a half, I sense I'll see it again soon.